Bump. Joining the WJ-AVE7 Green output club. External camera input seems to work better on my unit, and when switching back and forth between sources I get a momentary tease of color before it all fades to green. 
If anyone has any updates I’d appreciate it. @arcadekid, did you manage to recap the whole board?
@cryweaver @DigiEddy Yo. Long story short my repair did not work. I replaced… upwards of 70 capacitors with what I believed to be appropriate facsimiles. If you open your unit you can tell which capacitors failed by the tell-tale leakage on the leads. It was a fun project but ultimately very time consuming to no result. I did a lot of research on this model, and from what i can tell - the capacitors are all ripe for failure, and too many points to really triangulate the issue. It’s a shame because it’s such a cool unit. I ended up finding a more modern mixer with similar functionality. Wish I had better news 
That’s a bummer! It does feel like a cool mixer with some features I wish my V-8 had. Alas, I guess I can still use it to generate background colors and use that joystick and PIP to make some feedback weirdness. Oh well. Thanks for the response!
Eyoo, I have managed to triangulate my problem on my AVE7 to the composite input (1 and 2). The through of each channel output colors and the Svideo too. I am trying to source these parts for remplacement, anyone can help ?
ECEV1CV100 10uF 16V 4NA
ECEV1CV1470 47uF 16V 4DB
ECEV1EN3R3S 3.3uF 25V
2SB709A-R
2SA1034-Q
Mm, not sure it’s the exact same issue, but my MX30 has suddenly started outputting a washed out green tinted image. Is this a common issue with all Panasonic mixers? Appears to be on both inputs, but haven’t had time to get super into testing it.
I did notice that if I have one channel running video feedback I can get a correctly coloured image by fading halfway between the two channels. Don’t know if that’s anyone else’s experience…?
After doing some research into this fault, I’ve had someone much smarter than me tell me “the chroma loss is based on instability of the subcarrier oscillator which is something you might be easily able to check with a scope/freq counter.” Not sure if this is restating what’s already been mentioned above in a diff way, but hopefully this is helpful. Personally trying to track down a repair shop that can service this kind of issue.
Recently I acquired a broken AVE7 that had the same problems. I did a full recap and reajust of the subcarier frequency but the problem was still there and it was getting worst to the point of it just being a green spot on the screen. What fixed it for me was reflowing pins on the two ICs (IC105 and IC205). I noticed the pins were just sitting on blobs of solder. This is a pretty common problem on panasonic equipment from the 90s, the solder becomes like paste which brakes the joint and needs reflowing.
Thats pretty dope. How did you go about reflowing the ICs on a bigger board?
I need to get some flux but I’m going to try this this week and update on the results. Hopefully it works out for others. Thank you for your post!
Awesome, i’ve got 2 mixers with the same problem. Going to re-solder the 2 ic’s. Let you know the results. tnx
Hey y’all,
Thought I would share my experiences as I currently work to repair an AVE7 myself and also ask a question for anyone who may be able to help.
On arrival, the mixer powered on but only got power to the power indicator LED - no other LEDs or switches were responsive. I found that the -12V signal from the power board to the switch board was weak and traced it back to a failing voltage regulator IC1, which I replaced with an L7812. This got all power to the switch board and a semi-“functional” device.
At this point, I could get output and was able to cycle through the background colors and use all of the wipes/effects without issue. Upon plugging in inputs, however, I found all inputs to be washed out green and without proper sync.
As it seemed that most of these issues tend to pertain with the processing of the composite signal, I moved to the main board where I found that IC552 was only receiving ~1.5V to its Vdd pins that should be receiving 5V. I traced this deficiency, yet again, back to the power board.
On the power board, I suspected that IC2, the other 12V voltage regulator may have failed. I then noticed some green residue on one of the lugs of SF5 fuse that feeds into this voltage regulator. I went ahead and tested fuses SF3-5 and determined that SF3 and SF5 were no longer conducting.
Now my question - I want to replace these fuses but cannot confidently find a suitable part or replacement. It is a SOC 125V 630 mA fuse with leads to solder through hole and black packaging. The part number - SSFR630F002 - turns up nothing on google. I considered replacing them with a different fuse that I can match characteristics to the best of my ability, but I worry that parameters like speed and current curve could be different and negatively impact device performance. Does anyone have experience in finding these legacy parts or can make a recommendation on what to replace these fuses with?
EDIT: At this point, I’m just going to document my progress here and hopefully it may be of use to someone some day. I got in touch with the manufacturer of this fuse and was able to get some info - see attached.
SSFR - Catalog Page.pdf (445.2 KB)
SSFR 仕様書 (英語版).pdf (285.0 KB)
Any news on this ?
I just bought one, supposedly tested and working… and guess what 
ECEV1CV100 10uF 16V 4NA
ECEV1CV1470 47uF 16V 4DB
ECEV1EN3R3S 3.3uF 25V
2SB709A-R
2SA1034-Q
have you fixed your unit replacing these caps ? seems strange that bad caps are acting in the same way on 2 different channels… usually there is some difference (more/less green)
I never replied back here because unfortunately my attempts were wildly unsuccessful and I gave up for the time being lol
After replacing those fuses, the system showed no difference in performance. Then, 2 or 3 power cycles later, it stopped powering on altogether. It doesn’t even light the power LED anymore.
Watch this video of Mr. Betabyte on YouTube, I replaced exactly the capacitors shown in the video and my ave7 started working perfectly again without the green screen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imPsJ6emxzw
which model do you have? Would like to know if the fix would work on an NTSC model.
@homegrown did you sell your AVE7 to me via eBay? I bought one several months ago that was dead and someone had tried replacing fuses. I bypassed the power board entirely and gave it power from an external source, which worked to power it on, but the outputs still had some kind of sync issues and I gave up on it. Something in a board downstream from the power board must have been drawing too much current and blowing those fuses. I have this unit available for parts if anyone needs it.
Yup that was me. Sorry you didn’t have any luck with it 
Interesting to know that the issue went beyond the power board. Could be anything from reflowing one joint up to a full recap =\
