The dailywell part for that Tayda product is 1MS3T1B1M1QES and the Mouser part is 1MS3T1B1M2QES. According to the data sheet the only difference between those two part numbers is solder lugs vs. solder pins (both work fine with the shim PCBs).
If Tayda have sent you A-3187 switches without a centre-off position then you should be able to contact them and get the right replacement sent though (or a refund).
Once the whole RGB Matrix Mixer is assembled it’s difficult to fit the power connector on the top of the Output board because the Keyer board is deep and gets in the way. Originally, I used a right-angled power connector – which is fine since although it’s not keyed the module has diode protection to make sure it won’t be harmed if the power is plugged in backwards. But a better approach is to solder the shrounded power socket on the bottom of the board, like this. Make sure it’s aligned as shown, so that the stripe on the power cable aligns with the -12V stripe on the PCB.
It’s super late here so can’t tell if I am correct to think that this other Tayda switch (A-5488) is a suitable replacement for the spec’d 3PDT ON-OFF-ON toggle (108-0006-EVX). Or is that just wishful thinking, since it is so much cheaper?
Sean! That’s a great find… When I first designed the RGB Matrix the only sources for the on/off/on version of that switch were Mouser and one of the boutique pedal stores (I forget which one). Tayda only had the on/on version (which is nice but the centre ‘mute’ position is just so useful).
I am 99% sure I’ve used that exact part (Dailywell 1M33T1B1M1QES) from Mouser, so I am pretty confident it will work perfectly. Unfortunately I sent off a big Tayda order just one hour ago, but I’ll see if I can convince them to add that part to it so I can get some and confirm.
Went ahead and ordered some of those switches from Tayda and, while I haven’t built up any modules yet to test out (probably will take me a while yet to find the time), I can confirm that they at least do fit perfectly fine onto/through the boards/panels. Quality seems fine.
Important 1VR addendum!
Please populate R7 as a wire link (zero ohms) and not a 2.49K resistor like the older manual says. Be careful to make sure it doesn’t short on the potentiometer chassis though, it’s quite close.
If you are finding the variable output doesn’t go from -1V to +1V like it should then it’s very likely that this will fix the problem.
Sorry about that Important 1VR addendum!
Important Gainbrain addendum!
Please populate R4 as 10K rather than 1K (as it was in the older version of the manual) to increase the useful range of the manual knob and the CV input. Important Gainbrain addendum!
It turns out I haven’t created a manual for the 1SW yet (as I wrote in that other thread). I’ll sort one out. Sorry about that!
The 1SW is a passive switch module, so yes you can definitely use it with an analog modular synth’s audio and CV signals, and indeed with almost any electronic signal you can put in through a 1/8" plug.
Hey there, just wanted some clarification before I made my life much more difficult. Could anyone here confirm that I’ve oriented these switch PCBs correctly?
One more question-what’s the diameter of the switches for the input board for the matrix mixer? Unfortunately the diameter on my board is too small but I should be able to widen them with a bit but not sure what to use. My boards came from thonk and my switches came from Tayda. Fits great on the combined panel but too narrow for my extra input. Also, my direct input board fits AOk with its 3PDT switch
Sorry missed this until now!
Looks like the Tayda switches have a 6.35mm mounting diameter. Sometimes there are slight tolerance issues with JLCPCB so it might be a tight fit… or even not a fit: some modules I made the panels had smaller holes because I built my units using switches from elsewhere (Mouser?) which I think were slightly smaller than Tayda. But it was a while ago sorry, I’m not completely sure.
Personally I use a small chainsaw blade sharpening file to widen holes on PCBs/panels when I need to, because it’s conveniently sized and nicely rounded so the holes still end up with rounded sides. In the past on my panels I’ve had ground fills right up the holes to help keep out interference, but in the future I’m going to leave a bit of a gap so that there isn’t exposed copper plane that has to be filed away. Always another tweak required!
