Here are links to all of the Visible Signals manuals, which include the BOMs and build guides. Please make sure you use the file which corresponds to the version number that is written on the PCBs you have!
If you have any questions or would like help then please create a new thread in the visible signals category, so this one can reserved for links to all the manuals.
Dual Distrib
Gainbrain
RGB Matrix
(Coming soon: Connection Guide)
Video Mult
Wrangler
Great! just in time - delivery arrived in Brighton UK about 30min ago - thank you!!!
I think you opted for Express shipping⌠youâre probably the first non-Australian to receive your boards!
Happy New Year & Beer everyone 
@VanTa got our group buy in the post here in Berlin today 
Everything looks fine so Iâm looking forward to soldering up some of these in the coming days/weeks & once theyâre done, seeing them mix up some signals in the rack 
Thanks again @VisibleSignals
For anyone looking for #LT1251CN ICs for their #VisibleSingnals RGB Matrix Mixer build, Iâve ordered 25 from Mouser to get the cheaper breakpoint price (perhaps the incorrect term). Iâll happily sell them for a small fraction above cost price, just cover the postage cost of course. Iâve also got 25x #LT1256CN ICs (the #CadetX #Multiplier uses them for example) and plenty of the #Thonk right-angled #PJ302M jacks if youâre in need of a few
The Gainbrain module (my multi-purpose video VCA / crossfader / analog multiplier module) also uses the LT1251 (or LT1256 if you want a more accurate multiplier). They should be back in stock on the web site in about two weeks (the same PCB order includes 9 new prototype module designs so itâs going to be a busy January! 
)
Mine just arrived in L.A. today.
Beyond the connection guide, which it looks like youâre working on, I might also need a little more guidance on how the shims work, as that is something I have not encountered before.
I assume I just stick them in the correct way and solder to the pads on both sides� But at least seeing some photos of correctly placed/soldered shims would be helpful to reassure myself I am doing it correctly myself. Thanks!
Hi Sean,
This text is an example from one of the manuals, describing how to fit them. Note that the installation orientation (either the word âBottomâ or âTopâ showing) varies from module to module.
When installed they look like this:
On the solder side it looks like this:
I havenât cleaned up the flux off that board yet, but it is recommended to do so
You only need to solder the switch PCBs to the solder side of the main PCB. The holes are plated through to the component side.
Does that point you in the right direction? I have had a few people offer to make build videos for my modules, which might also be helpful.
Cheers,
A.
Yes, perfect.
All as I expected. But just wanted to make sure.
Will probably still be a little while before I actually build this up since I am waiting for a panel/PCB from someone else to arrive as well before ordering the remaining parts I donât have. But looking forward to it!
Thanks!
Iâve built one of the Mults, so far - nice and easy
Yesterday I put in a BIG mouser order for everything else I didnât have.
The Mult is great and has been put to good use already.
Looking forward to getting the rest built.
Hi everyone.
A kind person has pointed out that the 1P3T switch in the BOM for the RGB Matrix Input module has a collar that is slightly larger than the panel hole, which makes it difficult to correctly fit the module together.
Solution 1: different switch
If you havenât already purchased switches for your boards then please get this one instead: 118-1MS3T1B1M2QES (Mouser code). According to the datasheet it doesnât have collar. Alternatively a suitable switch (much cheaper) is available from Tayda (part number A-3187).
Solution 2: enlarge the hole
If you have the switches already then you can use a âstepped drillâ to gently widen the panel holes until itâs wide enough for the collar. Drill each one out slowly, from the rear side of the panel, and keep checking and working slowly until the switch body is flush with the panel.
Sorry about this - originally I used Tayda switches, but early feedback was to provide the BOM with single-source of parts, so I found a Mouser part that I thought would be compatible instead 
Iâll make the panel holes slightly larger on future designs, so if you bought these switches then hold on to them and they wonât go to waste.
As always if you have any questions then please get in touch.
Cheers,
A.
