Visible Signals Manuals (build guide, BOM etc)

Here are links to all of the Visible Signals manuals, which include the BOMs and build guides. Please make sure you use the file which corresponds to the version number that is written on the PCBs you have!

If you have any questions or would like help then please create a new thread in the visible signals category, so this one can reserved for links to all the manuals.

Dual Distrib


RGB Matrix

Video Mult







Power Distrib


Great! just in time - delivery arrived in Brighton UK about 30min ago - thank you!!!


I think you opted for Express shipping… you’re probably the first non-Australian to receive your boards!

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Happy New Year & Beer everyone :beers::sweat_smile:
@VanTa got our group buy in the post here in Berlin today :+1:t3:
Everything looks fine so I’m looking forward to soldering up some of these in the coming days/weeks & once they’re done, seeing them mix up some signals in the rack :star_struck:
Thanks again @VisibleSignals :+1:t3:

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For anyone looking for #LT1251CN ICs for their #VisibleSingnals RGB Matrix Mixer build, I’ve ordered 25 from Mouser to get the cheaper breakpoint price (perhaps the incorrect term). I’ll happily sell them for a small fraction above cost price, just cover the postage cost of course. I’ve also got 25x #LT1256CN ICs (the #CadetX #Multiplier uses them for example) and plenty of the #Thonk right-angled #PJ302M jacks if you’re in need of a few :star_struck:

The Gainbrain module (my multi-purpose video VCA / crossfader / analog multiplier module) also uses the LT1251 (or LT1256 if you want a more accurate multiplier). They should be back in stock on the web site in about two weeks (the same PCB order includes 9 new prototype module designs so it’s going to be a busy January! :slight_smile: )


Mine just arrived in L.A. today.

Beyond the connection guide, which it looks like you’re working on, I might also need a little more guidance on how the shims work, as that is something I have not encountered before.

I assume I just stick them in the correct way and solder to the pads on both sides…? But at least seeing some photos of correctly placed/soldered shims would be helpful to reassure myself I am doing it correctly myself. Thanks!


Hi Sean,

This text is an example from one of the manuals, describing how to fit them. Note that the installation orientation (either the word “Bottom” or “Top” showing) varies from module to module.

When installed they look like this (note: this is a photo of a prototype and the 3PDT shim is the wrong way round! Please follow the instructions in the PDF for each module!)

On the solder side it looks like this:

I haven’t cleaned up the flux off that board yet, but it is recommended to do so :slight_smile:

You only need to solder the switch PCBs to the solder side of the main PCB. The holes are plated through to the component side.

Does that point you in the right direction? I have had a few people offer to make build videos for my modules, which might also be helpful.



Yes, perfect.

All as I expected. But just wanted to make sure.

Will probably still be a little while before I actually build this up since I am waiting for a panel/PCB from someone else to arrive as well before ordering the remaining parts I don’t have. But looking forward to it!



I’ve built one of the Mults, so far - nice and easy :slight_smile:
Yesterday I put in a BIG mouser order for everything else I didn’t have.

The Mult is great and has been put to good use already.

Looking forward to getting the rest built.


Hi everyone.

A kind person has pointed out that the 1P3T switch in the BOM for the RGB Matrix Input module has a collar that is slightly larger than the panel hole, which makes it difficult to correctly fit the module together.

Solution 1: different switch
If you haven’t already purchased switches for your boards then please get this one instead: 118-1MS3T1B1M2QES (Mouser code). According to the datasheet it doesn’t have collar. Alternatively a suitable switch (much cheaper) is available from Tayda (part number A-3187).

Solution 2: enlarge the hole
If you have the switches already then you can use a ‘stepped drill’ to gently widen the panel holes until it’s wide enough for the collar. Drill each one out slowly, from the rear side of the panel, and keep checking and working slowly until the switch body is flush with the panel.

Sorry about this - originally I used Tayda switches, but early feedback was to provide the BOM with single-source of parts, so I found a Mouser part that I thought would be compatible instead :frowning:

I’ll make the panel holes slightly larger on future designs, so if you bought these switches then hold on to them and they won’t go to waste.

As always if you have any questions then please get in touch.



Hi, have you finished the RGB Matrix connection guide yet? Would love to see it! I finally got around to ordering my missing parts and I’m midway through the build.


Hi @dondon, I have just finished writing up the RGB Matrix Connection Guide. I’ll PM it to you to so you can beta-test it for me, and if it’s all good then I’ll upload it to the web site and in the first post in this thread :slight_smile:


The RGB Matrix Connection Guide manual is now available. If you’re building an RGB Matrix then please make sure you grab it!


Great! I was soldering up the Keyer board last night :slight_smile:


Another correction from an eagle-eyed spotter! The 10K pots in the RGB Matrix Keyer should be Right Angled, not Vertical as the manual said. Please make sure you download version 0.4c of the Keyer manual !

Sorry about that :frowning:

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Ughh, the above switch looks like a SPDT & not a 3DPT as required for the input modules of your RGB Matrix Mixer.

Update: somehow I got mixed up between the single 3DPT switch and the 3x 1DPT/SDPT :man_facepalming:t2:
Apologies for the confusion.

Here are links to the build guides for 2 new Visible Signal modules:


Oops… well you can use a SPDT (all the prototypes did), you just miss out on the mute position in the middle. I’ll update my post above to point this out. Sorry :frowning:

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No worries @VisibleSignals :+1:t3:
The mute position is much too useful so I definitely wouldn’t recommend anyone using a DPDT if they had extreme difficulty sourcing a 3DPT switch.
Tayda only had the 3DPT ON-ON last time I looked & not the required ON-OFF-ON as required for the top Bus switch, hopefully that’s changed since I last checked but I was mistaken and didn’t realise that I had focused on the wrong switches :man_facepalming:t2: