what would the advantage of having ac power be ?
for battery design i think a standand lipo charging circuit like the TP4056 would work plus a boost converter to get battery voltage up to 5v - both of these parts are very commonly available and cheap so wouldnt hurt to try it!
just an example of what i mean:
what would the advantage of having ac power be ?
No reason, I just like Tesla more than Edison… but you’re right DC would be easier
Thanks for the advice I will definitely give it a try!
I bought the exact same model, and also hoping to run custom software on it – let me know how it is going for you!
Afaik there aren’t Linux drivers for the touch screen yet, that would be nice also 
ooo interesting ! ya will let ya know stil havnt got around to it yet but think it will be fun 
Ordered the correct size last night… but it’s going to be another 2 weeks.
Still waiting on the right sized screens to come in… They’re in the States so they should be here in the next few days… fingers crossed everything works.
Too excited to wait for the screens, I started putting things together… Glad I did, looks like the potentiometers are too tall to fit in the Gameboy shell…
Will have to 3D print a modified Gameboy shell. Luckily I was able to find some STL files online created by: guighub (Jaiden Ougland) · GitHub
Just a quick mock-up for fun:
I’ll have to change the screen size, edit the button shapes, adjust the height, plus add a few drill holes but at least I don’t have to build an STL file from scratch.
Correct sized screens came in. Put everything together.
The pi zero turns on but I get a white screen.
Going to build a traditional recurboy to see if the problem is my PCB design.
The build is super cute! Now that I have one assembled I can start working on the 3d printed shell.
Damn… yeah it looks like it’s my PCB design
I was reading a different forum with the same problem:
I might need to make some traces thicker.
maybe try directly wiring a jumper from the data line to the board on your pcb and see if that helps ?
another thing that can be helpful is to connect a keyboard to the pi and start and stop recurboy program using the commands:
sudo killall recurBOY && sudo killall python3
to stop program and:
cd ~/recurBOY/software && ./startRecurBoy
to start the program
(let me double-check those commands when im in studio)
this just means you dont need to restart the pi everytime u need to test if the screen works…
when im preparing a new batch of recurBoys in the shop i have one with sockets on display pins adn test that every screen works quickly!
I did that and got some flickering, but did not think to reset the program.
This is what I plan on doing for the future. New screens and parts on order. I will also double check my traces and get new PCBs printed. Going to do a bit of trial and error. Will post again when I get a working version.
Haven’t given up on this project, been working on a redesign.
Changed some components… this version should fit in a Gameboy shell.
PCBs on order, fingers crossed it works.
IT WORKS!!! I’M SO HAPPY!!!
It also fits in the GameBoy Shell!!!
I’ll put it all together later I’m just going to enjoy this little victory for now!!
I snapped some pictures last night… Missing a few parts so I can’t do a full build but here is an idea of what it will look like:
Here is the back with the Raspberry Pi:
The Raspberry Pi fits fairly well with the cartridge slot to allow access to the usb and HDMI ports: (I might flip the Raspberry Pi to make it fit a little better)
Here one solution for the the composite video output: (the last one did not fit at all)
And finally, I can’t decide if the potentiometers should point out from the left and right sides or up from the top. Maybe you all can help me decide? The pots that stick up are great for laying the GameBoy stationary on a table when working with it and makes it feel smaller. The version with the pots on the sides is better for hand-held use but makes the GameBoy feel as though it’s taking up more space. Let me know what you all prefer, pots sticking up from the top or pots sticking out to the side:
For now, I’m gonnna order the parts I need, start working on a version 4 PCB and work on integrating the battery power.
Looks nice! At some point I think you mentioned 3D printing a case – are you still doing that, or are you using a normal gameboy replacement shell?
Also, might be worth calling this a “recurBOYboy”.
Trying to keep the build cost low that’s the hope for using the Gameboy shell.
A 3D print would be cool, maybe something that would snap together. I was only considering the 3D shell when I thought the parts would not fit. Still the more access the better. I’m just trying to make it all work first but wouldn’t mind revisiting the 3D print idea later.
I actually have ideas for a design that would use PCBs for a top and bottom shell, sort of like gieskes 3TRINSRGB+1C design:
lol recurboy^2
Alright! Ready to finish this project!
The new PCB redesigns are almost done.
Got a good feeling these will be close to the final design.
Just finished the artwork for the PCB lids!
Ordering parts this weekend.
So excited for this! Where do the cv jacks go in this version?
The CV and composite video will come out the top.
I asked a lot of friends which they preferred, the handheld version (with potentiometers sticking out the sides of the gameboy) or the desktop version (with potentiometers sticking out of the face of the gameboy). Half the people I asked said they like the handheld version while the other half said they liked the desktop. So I’m making both versions.
Will also have a Gameboy shell version for both (handheld and desktop) and a PCB stack version for both as well.
Right now I’m working on adding the battery power to the portable recurboy. Some Boost Converters just arrived in the mail. Once I get that figured out, I can post the final versions of the PCBs. Got some time off from work, so I can focus on this more. Hoping to finish this project by the end of the year.
That’s so amazing!!! Following this project closely - thanks for taking this on!
